[phearless]

Almost time to glue up the handles on a couple of rods.
I have always just used Weldbond glue. Does anyone have any experience with epoxy glues?
I have heard good things, and I did have one rod where the handle did move a bit after 4 rainy days of fishing.
Also favourite brands.

 

[Sparky]

I use a standard epoxy from Industrial Plasics and Paint- "Industrial Formulations" is the brand. Have used RONA epoxy with no probs. Lee Valley (Meca) carries West System epoxies which are excellent.
Sparky

 

[macrib46]

glues

Almost time to glue up the handles on a couple of rods.
I have always just used Weldbond glue. Does anyone have any experience with epoxy glues?
I have heard good things, and I did have one rod where the handle did move a bit after 4 rainy days of fishing.
Also favourite brands.

i used a constuction grade of white glue (was acctually more of a beige color) i think it was an elmers poduct. it's waterproof when it dries and sanding friendly as it is'nt as hard as epoxy.

dave

 

[knotnot]

I have used LePage's marine epoxy for boat work.
3M has some good marine grade glues and sealants.

G-Flex liquid epoxy is awesome, great for joining dissimilar materials, handles expansion, contraction, vibrations.

 

[scoopy]

Hi Fred,

I would just use any slow curing 2 part epoxy. I built my first rod recently and used it to glue on my reel seat and cork handle. I happened to get a small amount of epoxy on a paintbrush and a razor knife. Both items took a good amount of effort to remove from my workbench! Make sure you scuff up the surface of the blank with some sandpaper and away you go!


Matt

 

[phearless]

Thanks guys

I have probably built 30 rods or more in my day.
Just about done another one now.
First one I used epoxy on.
I am kinda old school.
Worked fine by looking at it.
Did a little feather inlay with grouse feathers from the suicidal chicken that crashed into my window last month and committed chickenside.

 

[scoopy]

I did a little feather inlay as well. I used color preserver to set them in place then epoxied over top, looks nice. I am going to start m next build in a week- a 6 wt rod for pink salmon insanity... complete with pink wraps!

 

[scoopy]

Oh and by the way, I am kinda jealous that fly tying materials just fly into your windows!!!

 

[Nuggy]

I have only built a few rods so take this for what it`s worth.

Epoxies that are specially made for rod building just seemed like the smart choice for myself. The grip and reel seat epoxies are developed with the life and function of the rod in mind and I`m sure plenty of research goes into developing the best product for the custom rod builder.

For the grips and reel seats I used Flex Coat`s two part epoxy glue and it was easy to use and cheap like borscht. The flex coat was kinda liquidy which wasn`t bad but you kinda had to get the hang of it. If I was gonna buy a new batch of epoxy I would use Rod Bond epoxy

http://www.u-40.com/rodbond.html

The Rod Bond is super popular and is a thicker consistency than flex coat and measurements don`t have to be very exact.

I have heard of many different glues and epoxies being used on rods that aren`t specific for the rod builder and haven`t heard of any problems but for the price I would use rod builder specific epoxy.

Cheers

 

[stevil]

To deal with runny epoxy, go to a local marine store, or Industrial plastics and paints to get a product known as "anti sag", "fumed silica" or "cabosil"..essentially glass fibers vapourized in a 3000 degree heat. Thickens epoxy and adds strength without a significant loss in flexibilty or gain in weight.

Add after mixing hardener. Can continue adding until you reach the consitency of peanut butter or use a small amount to slow the runs... cures clear in lower doses.

System 3 silvertip epoxy is nice to work with but lacks UV protection, yellows in no time. Their SB112 (formulated for surfboards) is a nice product with UV inhibitors, but prone to amine blush (greasy substance) if temperatures are not kept high.

Best epoxy I have used is a product called "resin research", cures crystal clear, UV stable and blush free, can blend slow and fast hardeners to achieve desired cure times and does well with thickening agents, tints and pigments, but only available in the States (fiberglass supply in Bingen Wash.), best of all most of the nasties are removed, so skin sensitization is minimal.

Have you considered 3m's 5200 polyuerethane marine adhesive for the task? Ultimate hold, good flexibility and absolute moisture resistance.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...S4K7_nid=ZL0J5MTRJWgsQH8HT14PGTglVF59GPGLL3bl