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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was just thinking i want a new bobber so theres an xtra around now that i have 2 vices. Iv always used cheap bobbins. under 5 $ sort of thing. there are more expensive ones. is there any diff in the bobbers or is the difference the money u pay and more prestige? not counting the special bobbbins like the nor vise bobber or the one with the light on it. just a bobbin. they all do the same thing right why pay 15 when u can get one for 5. I understand good scissors and good vice but all a bobbin is for is to wrap the thread on. and i wrap it nice and tight Im going to watch for one with a small neck because the way my new vise works theres no getn away from the point sticking out. I Hate when u finish a fly, take it out and theres thread around the hook point. smaller neck will be easier to go inbetween am I the only guy that dosent like the point stickingout ? everyone uptown vise seems to do that xept the griffen ones. and som ppl stick it in so the point sticks out. is there any reason dor that or personal preference?
 

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Iv always used cheap bobbins. under 5 $ sort of thing. there are more expensive ones. is there any diff in the bobbers or is the difference the money u pay and more prestige? they all do the same thing right why pay 15 when u can get one for 5. and i wrap it nice and tight
Bobbins are like the rest of your tools, you get what you pay for. If you are actually wrapping tight, and using smaller threads, your $5 dollar bobbin will snap of lots of thread. The $15 ceramic bobbin will allow you to use smaller diameter threads without having to rethread every couple of minutes due to break-offs. If you are happy wsith what you have, don't change a thing, but if you progress in your tying and take more efforts to tie smaller and more precise flies, you will eventually need the better tools. There is a lot more to good tools (bobbins included) than prestige. If you tie up 5 flies a week, almostg any tool will do. If you are serious about the craft and tie up 20, 30 or more flies a week, you will want to do it right and do it well, with asw few frustrations as possible.
 

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Get a bobbin with a ceramic insert. Other than that, everything else is basically a personal preference.

As for the hook point sticking out...just be more careful when you're tying and that doesn't happen.
 

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Concealing the point of a hook in the jaws of your vise equates to pushing the hook further into the jaws causing further stress on the jaws which is detrimental to the lifespan of the jaws. It is a guarantee that you will become frustrated with cheap bobbins as they are susceptible to burrs which cuts thread at the most crucial moment. I tie at thread breaking tension and a quality bobbin is important. I usually have 6-8 bobbins strung up but that's for commercial convenience. If you only use one bobbin make sure it has, at the very least, a ceramic bead in the end.

I think you are confusing efficiency for prestige. Most of us here that tie seriously never once consider prestige when we're shelling out money for tools. Whether you have 6 hours a day or one hour per week to dedicate to fly tying, you might as well make the most of it and quality tools will add to the fluidity of your tying sessions.
 

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Function over prestige...always! I couldn't give a rat's @ss what it looks like; I'm all about function. Strangely enough, my flies are the same way, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh ok I ddnt know thats what snapped the thread I htought it was just thin thread or pulling too tight. I tie lots of flies. somtimes i spend hours doing it. I have lots of stock i dont even use. just screw around somtimes and see what comes of it LOL. I keep fresh stock most of the time. mb not quite as much now that i know to open my flybox and let them dry LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With my griffen montana pro I can stick the very tip just in the V of the jaw just enough the point is in. and it holds it just as well as the snowbee ( I know I made a special test) only no point to disturb my matirial. I can bend the hook strait down on my montana just as well as the snowbee. DOnt get me wrong its still a nice vice. I might make it my tube flyer and get a griffen mongoose for my normal flys. My montan pro is good but no rotary feater is the only thing. Its easily the best non rotatr iv ever tied on
 

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I don't know whether I'm doing something wrong or whether I just wasn't lucky but both ceramic bobbins I own break thread like there is no tomorrow. Even 3/0 thread is not safe. I have a thin metal tipped bobbin and I works great, I can get some good tension and haven't had too many problems with thread breaking. My ceramic bobbins tend to cut into my thread especially when I'm wrapping quickly. Is this a flaw in my wrapping technique or did I just buy two duds?
 

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I don't know whether I'm doing something wrong or whether I just wasn't lucky but both ceramic bobbins I own break thread like there is no tomorrow. Even 3/0 thread is not safe. I have a thin metal tipped bobbin and I works great, I can get some good tension and haven't had too many problems with thread breaking. My ceramic bobbins tend to cut into my thread especially when I'm wrapping quickly. Is this a flaw in my wrapping technique or did I just buy two duds?
You may have a cracked insert in your bobbins. take a good magnifier (a loupe) and have a look.
 

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Im going to watch for one with a small neck because the way my new vise works theres no getn away from the point sticking out. I Hate when u finish a fly, take it out and theres thread around the hook point. smaller neck will be easier to go inbetween am I the only guy that dosent like the point stickingout ? everyone uptown vise seems to do that xept the griffen ones. and som ppl stick it in so the point sticks out. is there any reason dor that or personal preference?
If you mount the hook in your vice (any vice) with the hook point in the vice, you make it much harder (almost impossible in some cases) to tie the body of the fly far enough back on the hook. Learn to avoid wrapping the thread around your hook point. It really isn't that hard to do, compared to
trying to wrap material on your hook when you have to work between the vise and the hook shank.
 

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If you mount the hook in your vice (any vice) with the hook point in the vice, you make it much harder (almost impossible in some cases) to tie the body of the fly far enough back on the hook. Learn to avoid wrapping the thread around your hook point. It really isn't that hard to do, compared to
trying to wrap material on your hook when you have to work between the vise and the hook shank.
Prof's right. Good technique will overcome any downfalls you may have when tying certain patterns. Learn the proper technique; it's not a race or a timed event.
 

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I've only been tying a couple of years, so I defer to the experts, but early on I started putting my hook point back into the vice because I found that I was often slashing the thread on it.

I'm sure I'd be better at avoiding the point by now, but I personally don't find having the point hidden in the vice much more restrictive. Either way I have to swing the thread out (admittedly for a wider arc my way). I am still able to tie deep into the hook bend when I need to.

Anyway, it's what I'm used to and it doesn't affect me too much. Your mileage may vary.
 

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I really enjoy using the Rite adjustable bobbin now that I'm used to it. Was a little weird in the hand at first but now it's all good. With the tension adjust-ability you no longer have the "over pulls" of thread when tossing the bobbin out of the way. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ya iv got so i like it alot more now wih the point sticking out. maby because it was brought to my attention i dont know. but i like it now and also am super happy how my vise works. I thought it was only for bigger hooks or somthing but it needs to be in a certain way.
 
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