Perspectives from boat builders.

[Steve Zissou]

I'm looking to build a welded aluminum punt or pram, and was wondering if any of the boat builders have any suggested plans or plans that they would be willing to share.

I'm looking for a smaller design that would be no more than 8ft long. The displacement of the design doesn't need to be huge, but larger would be better.

Any suggestions?

I've decided on an aluminum craft because I have an abundance of welding gear available to me and I'd like to avoid hiking a 100lb plywood pram into some of the lakes I frequent.

[Mr T(rout bum)]

Aluminum boats are fine, but dont totally rule out wood because of weight. An 8ft pram doesnt have to weigh 100lbs...

http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Boa.../dp/0071567038

[Steve Zissou]

I call shenanigans.

That book cover must be photoshopped!

My concern was in part for weight, but also for the availability of the materials and tools necessary for construction. I have a great deal of welding tools at my disposal along with an English wheel, whereas I don't know anything about the stitch and glue method.

I tend to be hard on my gear at times as well, and thought that an aluminum boat would be less likely to break when I almost drunkenly fall down a hill carrying it into my favourite lake whose path is iced up at 5am.

Edit - Thanks. I guess I'm getting that book for Christmas.

[Steve Zissou]

Does anyone have any good pram plans they'd be willing to share?

I'm also looking for guidance on marine plywood type and thickness.

I'm thinking that I can get away with 1/4" plywood for the sides and transom, but the bottom of the boat needs to be 1/2" or better. As for type, I was leaning towards Marine Meranti in BS1088 or BS6566.

[LiquidGuides01]

This site has some good plans, http://www.gartsideboats.com/catrow.php


The first one is similar to my sabot that i built just not as wide.

seen below:
http://www.flyfishbc.com/photopost/m...-27-sabot.html


Hope that helps,
Dave

[Steve Zissou]

Thanks, Dave.

I was just trying to dodge the bullet of having to spend 80 to 100 dollars for plans.

Trying to do this as cheaply as possible.

[LiquidGuides01]

ok well i'll have a look and see if i can find the plans for my boat if thats he kind of boat your lookin for. its great for lakes!

[Steve Zissou]

Yeah, I like your boat.

I have a few free plans from online, I just don't know anybody that has built these boats, so I'm unsure of how much trust I can put into them.

[flyboy]

Steve I also have been looking into building a wooden pram and from the research I have done I would say that a wooden boat will handle just about anything you can throw at it, There are boats kicking around in the US built by some famous boat builders that have run rivers with class 4 and 5 water for 50 plus years. fiberglass stitch and glue is incredibly strong and easy to repair if you do punch a hole in it, many guides run week long trips on rivers down south with four people and gear, they carry some glass with them and quick set epoxy to do on site repairs. As far as weight goes an 8 foot pram will weigh well under 100lbs and can easily be handled by a single person here is a beautiful 8 ft pram with specs http://www.boatdesigns.com/products.asp?dept=738 the plans for this are not free but you get an idea of what they are about. You can build one of these in a single garage with very few tools and very little experience and could complete one in about 40 hours if you are handy at all with tools. The nice thing about building one of these is you can build it bare bones or pimp it right out making it your unique ride.

[Steve Zissou]

Thanks, Flyboy.

I was going to go with these plans:
Apple Pie

It's not a pram, but a dinghy. I'm just trying to hammer down all of the stitch and glue information that I can before I jump in with both feet.

I don't know if I should start by stitching the sides to the bottom and then add the bow and stern transoms or which order is optimal. I figured that no matter what I should stitch from the back and wait until all of the pieces are together before stitching all the way forward into the curves.

My basic comprehension of the steps is to drill out the holes on each panel, then loosely stitch the panels all together and then tighten each joint up. Once tightened up nicely, epoxy is added to the inside edge between the stitches and allowed to cure before removing the stitches (leaving the transom stitches in) and sanding, then taping and gluing again.

Part of me thinks that I should be applying a coat of epoxy to the faces of each exposed plank, but I've not read anything on that, so I guess just the chines and seams.