cutting & splicing spey lines

[24_7Fisherman]

i have a Delat airflow on my spey rod. now im wondering WHERE i would chop it if i wanted to add a slickshooter running line?

also im going to be getting a switch rod soon and will be putting a Skagit or compact Skagit on it. which would be better ? and also where would you cut these to add thinner running line (slickshooter) ?


Thanks for any info

[btree]

i have a Delat airflow on my spey rod. now im wondering WHERE i would chop it if i wanted to add a slickshooter running line?

also im going to be getting a switch rod soon and will be putting a Skagit or compact Skagit on it. which would be better ? and also where would you cut these to add thinner running line (slickshooter) ?


Thanks for any info

I'm just going by what I think would work - never done it before, but IF you were to chop that line, I'd do it a few inches behind the loading point (it should be marked on the line). You dont want any lumps inside the rod when casting.

That being said, I'd wait till more people chime in on this...

[24_7Fisherman]

I did find this bit of info about doing a good splicing job so your left knotless. this is cut & pasted from the place i found it.



"Slick shooter is fantastic; here is how I hook it up with NO knots!
I use a piece of .031 running line to my taper section, I attach my Slick Shooter to that.

I strip about two inches of coating off run line, place a needle up though the center core of the running line and leave it there for a couple hours. Put a piece of 30 lbs. braided mono (about 6 inches piece) over the Slick Shooter and get it out of the way. Take the needle out of the core of the running line and put the Slick Shooter up were the needle was (Rough up the Slick Shooter before you put it in the core of the running line). Take tying thread and rap that connection, then pull the braided mono over that connection. And rap both ends with trying thread. Then I coat it with Aqua Flex (felx cement). I use the same system on backing too. NOT lost a line with that slice!"

Second, is to cut the running line about 15' behind the head (to give yourself fly line to hold rather than the slick shooter), nail knot the slick shooter to that and then coat the knot with something like Loon Knot sense.

I'm sure there are more methods out there that others may be able to help with.

[newsteelyman]

I have a delta and an airflo skagit and this is what I did so I can use both lines on one reel. Instead of slickshooter I used rio powerflex running line. i cut the delta about 2 or 3 feet back from the end of the taper ( back from the slide on indicator that came with my line)- I did this 'cause I don't mind shooting the loop throught the last couple of guides. as i get better at casting and have more overhang, this will be less of a problem. At the end of the delta a made my own loop using clear shrink tube and a heat gun, after melting the shrink tube at rolling it on a table to meld the delta line together and allowing a few minutes to coll I cut the shrink tube off and presto, my own welded loop. Takes a bit of practice but when you get it right you have a tough, reliable loop.
Your switch rod would probly work better with the shorter compact skagit.That is what I use on mine. The compacts from airflo come as a head only so just add your favorite running line and go cast. the compact is better suited for sink tips and larger flies, not finesse presentations, for that you may want a scandi type head or a wf type line such as a steelhead taper.
hope this helps,
Brian